EN 567: 2013
Mountaineering rope clamps
Mountaineering rope clamps are used to assist the user in climbing up a rope by only allowing free movement of the rope in one direction. This allows the user to pull on the rope clamp to ascend.
Rope clamps are constantly moved along mountaineering rope when in use, so this test is to check that they do not cause damage when under load. The test requires a 4kN load to be applied to the rope clamp when fixed to 5 different locations along the maximum and minimum diameter ropes. No damage or deformation should occur that could impair its function.
A rope clamp contains a locking device which holds the rope in place and requires at least 2 actions to open. The pushing test uses the maximum and minimum diameter ropes to apply a load of 400N, to push against the locking device. The rope should not be released during the test.
Similar to the pushing test, the pulling test uses the maximum and minimum diameter ropes to apply a load of 2kN, to pull against the locking device. The rope should not be released during the test.